5. Unexpected beauty on “the other side” of Amsterdam.


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Kenian/Dutch model Jalida and local guide and photographer Vincent visit unexpected parts of Amsterdam. Joining forces to describe what they see and feel in word and image.
Wishing I could hop on a bike and travel at the speed of light leaving behind a face with a smile.”  

When people first arrive at Amsterdam Central station they don’t expect the bicycle flat, nor the funny new bus platform with its futuristic bus drivers’ office. No, they expect to see three things.
One. The red-light-district. A short stroll from Central Station and instant satisfaction awaits. In many ways. Shocking for many, how prostitutes try to lure you in from behind a thin layer of glass that their shop window is. All this sex and temptation is set amidst picturesque 17th century houses, canals and around the Old Church and Amsterdam University. Overwhelming. One should not make things worse, but of course, there is more temptation.
Two. Coffeeshops. Beware. Dutch pre-rolled joints are much stronger than what you may be used to from your local wannabe dealer so handle with care. Amsterdam’s “Soft” drugs have become harder over the last decade or so. High quality stuff that can keep you stoned for days. And if you want just a coffee with some cake... take very little bites. Space cake works slowly but long. Best advice would be to stay away from it all, but hey. You’re in Amsterdam.
Three. Canals. And the Anne Frank house. Which is situated on the Prinsengracht canal. Instant satisfaction again. Right in front of CS you take a boat ride on the canals. Hop off at Anne Franks house and take the next boat to your next main point of interest, i.e. the Vincent van Gogh museum. On the museum square you can also find the now famous “I amsterdam sign”. Get in line and have your photo taken. Amsterdam pleases so easily...
But. For more unexpected beauty, turn the other way!  Look north my friend. Taking a free ferry from Central Station across the broad IJ will bring you to the former NDSM docks and docklands. A wild and deserted industrial area where young urban artists have had their way with the elements and smart entrepreneurs have set up tantalizing restaurants.

“It was like being caught in a dream and never wanting to wake up. I could imagine myself sailing to far away lands as I felt the waves and hull dance so superbly under my feet. The hypnotising rock to and fro led to a slumberous feeling though the guff of wind was a constant to stay awake.”

Arriving in the North, wherever you look, there is a photo opportunity. Upon arrival you pass by a rusty old Russian sub-marine and the quirky Pancake boat. Walk around the block and find out that you are not the first to discover this place. MTV has set up its Dutch office here and on weekends there is a large flee market where locals shop and stroll. Behind large yellow doors there is an indoor skate court for young hipsters. Many of them.
“In the distance a beacon calls to me. As I get closer the realisation that the yellow glow of the door beckons me into a world where children have wheels and fear is but a word. I watch, as they stand atop hills of wood unafraid to free fall and glide like birds in a never-ending ballet.”

Passing by rough artworks and endless walls of colourful graffiti everything here seems to be under construction. Artists at work. This area could inspire even the least creative mind. During our visit, early March, the Sun was trying very hard to peer through the clouds but it hardly ever did. Heavy clouds in all tones of gray, water-cold air, not raining. Only just.   

“The discovery of a world that seemed so still from afar yet the subtle beauty it offered left me in awe. I leave my trace behind and look up to the sky. The fleeting sun caresses my skin leaving a tingle behind as a smile crosses my face. Sudden realisation that something in me has shifted. For but a moment I could escape from real life and be crazy happy.”

Photo-shoots can be cold. Icy wind forcing us to wear gloves and mittens. In the leeside of a huge crane. Suffering but still enjoying. Luckily giving us the best of reasons to enter one of the extraordinary food establishments. The Noorderlicht cafeteria offers affordable vega and other fair in a cross over between greenhouse and hangar. Taking a break and soaking in even more unexpected artful beauty. Upstairs is empty. Here, even a normal couch turns into a work of art.

“The need to put up my feet and continue the dream as I sink into the colourful sofa. A feeling of restlessness and urge to explore every surface with my body leading to the discovery of peace. Suspicion that reality wants to intrude and the need to put off the dreaded moment.”

Outside, there is so much more! An abandoned three-mast schooner, used as a trainee ship by the Dutch navy. In Summer this is a luxurious restaurant but now it is too early for the season. Not stopping us to “enter”, easily imagining ourselves pirates. Opposite of the Pollux we find a large red floating lighthouse. Or is it a Japanese restaurant? Then, the Sirius. The sisters ship of Greenpeace’ Rainbow Warrior. Reminding us of the era of Hollanditis. Then, the Botel. Not as pretty as everything else but convenient and affordable accommodation in these surreal surroundings. For some proper dreamy tourist sleep. Gazing in the distance. Where even the coal-fired power plant seems laden with romance.

“Such sheer joy that for a moment one forgets the vastness. Reminder that we are fragile creatures and the blend of my soft body with the edifices make them appear as though animated. I imagine myself skipping on a rainbow, looking into the distance as the sun plays a game of hide and seek with the clouds as though an angel shy to shine.”

At the end of the day we are stunned. Even living in Amsterdam, experiencing this area comes as a renewed surprise. At the IJ-canteen we round up the day with “bitterballs” and hot chocolate. Before we take the ferry back to reality. Ending this trip, ready to start the next, from Amsterdam Central. With love.